So, globetrotting surf dude, where do we find you today?

I'm on the beach at Watergate Bay in Newquay, Cornwall, where I was born and brought up. I've just been coaching some of the younger guys how to surf on the bigger waves.

Man enough to handle the big waves yourself?

I went to Sunset Beach in Hawaii a couple of years ago and caught a wave that was about 15ft high.

Ever tempted to quit our icy depths for warmer seas?

Once you're in there, splashing around, it's all right. You always have to wear a wetsuit in this country, though, even in summer.

You're five times British junior champion, and now English national champion. When was your first tangle with the waves?

On a body board when I was about 6. My dad used to be a lifeguard and my mum loves sunbathing, so we were always on the beach. I started riding a short board when I was 11.

Take to it like a duck to water?

Not really. It probably took me about two years of being out and about riding waves before I started progressing.

Ever have lessons?

I taught myself at the start, but I've had coaching as I've progressed.

Do the big-time surfers take the Brits seriously?

Other nationalities are quite far ahead because they can put on their shorts and run straight into perfect waves, whereas we have to persevere. You have to make the most of what you're given.

Many competitions this year?

My next one is the White Stuff Surf Relief at Watergate on July 26 and 27. It's a charity event, to raise money for the victims of the 2004 tsunami.

Another trophy for the mantelpiece?

I hope so.

You sound doubtful?

I've got a bad foot at the moment. I cut it on some rocks when I was training in Morocco over the winter and I keep banging it every time I surf. I should stay out of the water until it's healed, but I just can't.

Any other injuries?

I speared my chin with the nose of my board a few years ago. My front foot slipped off, and the board kept going up, straight into my chin. Broke the nose off my board too.

Green tea or your GP?

Doctor, but only if it's serious. For little cuts, I take a leaf from one of my aloe vera plants, break it open, and squeeze the goo straight on the wound. It works really well.

Do you get “into the zone” before a contest?

I speak to myself just before I go out, to make sure that I feel confident and to pep myself up a bit.

Top-up the surfing with anything else?

I do a bit of boxing training. It really helps, especially for co-ordination. Both sports are quick, using reflex muscles.

How do you fuel your exertions?

I try to eat a lot of carbohydrates, so that I have lots of energy for the competitions.

Ready, steady, cook?

No, not really. I can rustle up a few things, if I'm desperate. Luckily, I still live at home, so Mum feeds me.

Are today's pro surfers clean-living, honed athletes?

I drink, but I try to avoid it before a competition. You want to give yourself the best chance you can.

How do you let your hair down?

Have a few beers, go out with my mates.

A taste for the smokes?

No.

Spend much time grooming?

I moisturise a little bit.

Is there a Mrs Champion Surfer?

Yes. I've been going out with my girlfriend for about seven months. She surfs too, but not competitively.

Ever feel the fear?

I've been scared a few times; that's my favourite time to go surfing, when the adrenalin's pumping.

Ever call on God to protect you from a watery grave?

I say a little prayer every night before a contest, but I'm not religious as such.

How long can you ride the crest of the wave?

You never get too old to go out there and have fun. The current world champion is 35, but he seems to have got better with age. I've definitely got a few more years left.

Plan B if the surfing goes belly-up?

I coach in summer. But I might try to get a trade behind me. It takes two and a half years to become an electrician, and it's a trade that I can take anywhere in the world.

INTERVIEW: HARRIET ADDISON

To follow Tom's progress, click on www.dailysurf.net

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