I react to sunshine in the same way most people react to rain: get out of it, now. It’s not just that I dislike having all my flaws spotlit; it’s also that I spent my formative years in a hot country. Most Italians over the age of 45 have complexions like dried figs: wrinkled, uneven landscapes. There is even a saying for this: “Di dietro liceo, d’avanti museo.” Crudely, it means this: high school from behind, museum at the front.

For this reason, many manufacturers now put sunscreens in their moisturisers; but with SPF guidelines still confusing, it is hard to know what’s what. In addition, there are still concerns surrounding the potential side effects of chemical filters (which absorb radiation) versus mineral filters (which deflect it).

The British Association of Dermatologists (BAD, www.bad.co.uk) is adamant that chemical sunscreens are not harmful; however, it does say that because of bad labelling, consumers are not always aware of how long the protection lasts, which in itself may present a risk. People put on sunscreen in the morning and assume they’re sorted for the day – when in fact some filters may only last a few hours.

It is important also to understand that SPF numbering only refers to a product’s ability to protect from UVB rays (which cause sunburn and skin cancer). It is not an indicator of protection against UVA rays, which affect the elastin in the skin and induce sun-induced ageing. You must find something that can take care of both.

New EU regulations covering all of this come into force this summer. Meanwhile, how to harness those first rays of spring? When it comes to SPF in moisturisers, BAD says: “A moisturiser with an SPF will protect against small amounts of UV exposure, such as when you walk to the car… but sunscreen is better for longer exposure, such as spending your lunch hour outside.” Hmm. This is a worry.

Trouble is, the reason these SPF moisturisers are so attractive is that proper sunscreens are often horrid to use: greasy, smelly, impossible to wear with make-up. If they’re mineral-based, they give you a white pallor; the chemical ones can cause an allergic reaction. What you want is something genuinely effective that doesn’t irritate and won’t clog up your pores.

Hurrah, then, for Dr Sebagh (available from Space NK or Selfridges). The super-smooth sultan of skincare has invented a colourless, fragrance and paraben-free cream with an SPF of 30: Sun-City Protection (£50). Designed for use over your usual moisturiser, it delivers up to 97 per cent protection from both UVA and UVB rays. Thanks to the micronized mineral filters in it, the texture is truly lovely, surprisingly matt and perfect under make-up. It doesn’t go on sale until April. So until then, keep your (sun) hats on.

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