Not so much surf’n’turf as river’n’roots. Although the rich meatiness of smoked eel is my preference here, the combination would also work with smoked trout or mackerel. The mayonnaise recipe makes more than you need: I suggest you eat the rest with some hard-boiled eggs.

Serves 6

450g smoked eel fillets (the Inverawe brand is good; look for it in delis and at www.inverawe.co.uk)

FOR THE MAYONNAISE

1 egg yolk
1 heaped tbsp dijon mustard
1 tsp redwine vinegar
125ml vegetable oil
Salt and pepper

FOR THE SALAD

½ lemon
300g celeriac, peeled
125g raw beetroot, peeled
2 tbsp mayonnaise (see above)
2 tbsp horseradish sauce (less if it’s very hot)
1½ tbsp small salted capers, rinsed and drained
A fistful of parsley, finely chopped

First, make the mayonnaise. In a mixing bowl, combine the egg yolk, mustard and vinegar. Then, drop by drop at first, start to whisk in the oil (it helps to have this in a jug), beating constantly. Whisk hard – the egg and oil will start to emulsify. As they do so, you can start adding the oil in a thin, steady stream, again whisking it in thoroughly. When the oil has been incorporated, season well and set to one side.

For the salad, squeeze the lemon into a mixing bowl. Cut the celeriac into fine matchsticks and stir into the lemon juice to prevent it turning brown. Cut the beetroot into matchsticks the same size and mix with the celeriac. Combine 2 tbsp of the mayonnaise with the horseradish and mix thoroughly into the celeriac and beetroot, along with the remaining ingredients. Stick it in the fridge for an hour or so to allow the flavours to mix.

To serve, put a rustic mound of rémoulade on each of the six plates. Place the smoked fish alongside it or on top – as you see fit. Scatter with a few extra capers or parsley before serving.

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