A guilt-free alternative to foie gras that is produced from free-range ducks and geese in Norfolk is being introduced next week in time for the Christmas shopping season.

There is no force-feeding of birds to produce the pâté and most people – except for vegetarians – will be able to eat it with a clear conscience.

The products are mischievously named Faux Gras so that there is no question of shoppers being duped. In case of confusion, however, the packs are boldly labelled, “Not foie gras”.

Supermarkets are looking for welfare-friendly items because they are aware of the growing interest among consumers for ethical food and drink products.

Critics of traditional foie gras are concerned about the feeding process, where grain is forced down birds’ throats with a pipe, which can cause injury. This ensures that the liver grows six to ten times its normal size.

The new brands of Faux Gras have won praise from the RSPCA and Compassion in World Farming (CIWF).

Connoisseurs may balk at the darker colour and lighter flavour, but the pâté is made from about 50 per cent birds’ liver blended with goose or duck fat. This forms a creamy texture that is a good mimic of traditional foie gras.

The timing of the new product coincides with a new offensive from the People’s Campaign for the Ethical Treatment of Animals to persuade luxury stores to stop selling foie gras.

Faux Gras has been developed by Waitrose, which has bought a trade-mark for the Faux Gras range. It is convinced that consumers will enjoy the taste without any feelings of guilt.

David Stone, a buyer for the chain, said: “We think this is as near to authentic foie gras as we can get without the cruelty. Waitrose does not sell traditional foie gras because it just isn’t consistent with our high standards of animal welfare.

“But now we are confident we have come up with the holy grail of the gastronomic world – a pâté with the richness of traditional foie gras, but without any of the guilt.”

Lesley Lambert, the director of research at CIWF, is delighted by the product. “I have visited the farms and in terms of standards they are among the best I have seen. The farmers have a commitment to good welfare.”

Marc Cooper, an animal welfare scientist for the RSPCA, said: “This is a very good innovation from Waitrose and the food has been produced with welfare in mind. This new range will make it much easier for people to give up buying the traditional product and it might even make it easier for a UK ban on foie gras to be achieved.”

There are already bans in place in Germany, Israel, Norway and Poland and a growing mood in Britain for a similar ban.

House of Fraser stores, Harvey Nichols and Waitrose have banned it already and recent research from the RSPCA suggests that 63 per cent of the public favour a ban on its sale in Britain.

Others are sensitive about the issue. Harrods and Fortnum & Mason still sell the traditional product but were so nervous about adverse publicity they declined to send a sample for The to compare with the new range.

Selfridges has already said that it will stock a welfare-friendly version in the new year alongside the traditional one – although both will be priced at £39.99 for 180g (about 6oz).

Production of foie gras and force-feeding of birds is already banned in Britain but imports are allowed.

The new home-produced range will also bring extra cash to poultry farmers and find a new market for duck and goose livers, which are considered byproducts of the birds.

Councils in Bolton, York and Norwich have banned the sale of foie gras and the Green Party in Brighton and Hove is also pressing for a ban.

Ministers have so far resisted a national ban – despite pressure from animal welfare groups – on the ground that it would be in breach of European competition law.

Pots of the goose and duck liver Faux Gras pâté go on sale at Waitrsoe stores from Wednesday at £6.99 for 200g and £4.99 for a 175g pack. The goose version will be on sale only before Christmas but the duck will be sold throughout the year.

The taste test

–– Ten Times staff were asked to compare Fortnum & Mason foie gras made from whole French goose liver and Waitrose Faux Gras

–– Seven recognised the traditional product and three thought the Waitrose version was authentic

–– The same seven preferred the French product’s lighter, smoother and creamier texture and taste. The same three raved about the strong and gamey taste and texture of the Norfolk goose

–– Of the seven who preferred the foie gras, four thought that the Waitrose version was a rich pâté they would be happy to eat and serve at home. The other three said that it was “too pungent”, “too rich” or “tasted like salmon paste”

Life of a Faux Gras duck

–– Ducklings are reared indoors for first three weeks before moving to paddock with a flushable pond

–– They can also choose to lie in straw beds in sheds

–– Most turn in at night and in wet weather

–– Slaughtered at 49 days for their meat. The liver is a byproduct

–– Average liver weighs 62g

Traditional foie gras birds

–– Pipe is inserted down birds’ throats and grain and fat are pumped directly into their stomachs

–– From 12 weeks birds are force-fed 2 or 3 times a day

–– They are slaughtered at 112 to 140 days old

–– Average weight of liver: 300g to 400g

Source: British Poultry Council, CIWF, Peta

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