I never bought into the cult of the highly tuned Subaru Impreza Turbo. The basic car has always been a splendidly effective and dependable device and for me, if for few others in this game, they were always spoilt by attempts to make them go faster.

Nor have we been short of tweaked versions: there was the old WRX, the RB5, 22B, P1, WR Prodrive, the original STi, and probably several more I’ve forgotten. These were cars that begged to be driven fast and whenever I did I almost invariably regretted it: all the extra performance served only to highlight the hitherto well-concealed limitations of their handling and their brakes.

It’s also why I have adored all the various Mitsubishi Lancer Evolutions. Impractical and infuriating they may be, but when challenged to live up to the promise of their looks, every last one has delivered in full.

Now it looks as though Subaru is waking up. It would like you to think that relaunching this restyled and mechanically enhanced Impreza only one year after its predecessor was all part of the plan. The truth is that the earlier car was so ugly it didn’t sell. That said, it has also created the opportunity to modify further the STi performance derivative and for the first time, in my view, the result is better even than the standard model.

Improvements to the suspension and brakes make this the best-handling Impreza ever, yet at £24,995 it is £2,500 cheaper than last year’s car. Under the circumstances it would be rude not to spend £2,000 of the saving on the Subaru-approved Prodrive performance pack, which boosts power from an interesting 262bhp to a positively fascinating 300bhp.

First impressions, however, are not good. At idle the engine sounds like it’s breaking wind and you soon become aware that the ride is simply appalling. At a stroke the Impreza’s strongest suit, its everyday ease of driving, has been badly compromised.

The flip side is that it is astonishingly fast: 0 to 60mph in 4.6sec is well inside Aston Martin Vanquish V12 territory. The gearchange is brilliant, too: short in throw, swift in action, it allows the mesmerising acceleration to continue almost uninterrupted.

But what really marks this car out is that the fun no longer stops when the corners start. Most importantly, the brakes give all the reassurance and retardation you could want, and the sharpened steering means the nose follows your chosen line like a bloodhound instead of trying to run wide. It is fun, agile and exploitable like no other Impreza before.

The question is not whether this is the best driver’s car Subaru has ever produced, for it indisputably is. The issue is whether too many of its less exciting but still important qualities have been sacrificed along the way.

Were it not for the ride quality, I’d say Subaru had judged things to perfection. Nobody expects a car like this to cosset but a fairly fundamental requirement is that it does not beat up its driver every time he or she climbs aboard if it is to work as the everyday machine it was clearly intended to be.

The other point is that however good the STi is to drive, and believe me it’s close to fabulous, it’s still not as much fun as the Mitsubishi Lancer Evo VII. So if you’re going to have your fillings dislodged anyway you might as well be enjoying yourself as much as possible, and that still means choosing the Evo over the STi.

In fact, the decision isn’t so simple. The truth is that the Evo is even less practical than the Impreza thanks to its pathetic fuel tank and awesome thirst, its cabin looks cheaper still and some will find its hooligan attitude overwhelming. Indeed, however good the Evo VII is on the road it’s even better on the track, which means it is a sensible choice only when viewed largely as a recreational device and, therefore, probably as a second car.

Of the two I’d still choose the Evo because in the right circumstances it can do things denied even to the Subaru. As an only car the Impreza is by far the better bet. If you can stand the ride it is the greatest all-rounder you can buy for less than £30,000.

VITAL STATISTICS
Model Subaru Impreza WRX STi with Prodrive performance pack
Engine type Four cylinders, turbocharged, 1994cc
Power/Torque 300bhp @ 6000rpm/ 299 lb ft @ 4000rpm
Transmission Six-speed manual
Suspension (front and rear) inverted struts, coil springs, anti-roll bar
Tyres 225/45 ZR 17
Fuel/CO2 n/a / n/a
Co car tax £3,756 for higher-rate taxpayer
Top speed 155mph
Acceleration 0 to 60mph: 4.6sec
Price £26,990
Verdict Best Impreza yet