THE MAN who removed Gordon Ramsay and his star chef from the Connaught hotel, and then went to Paris to import a replacement, must be a pretty cool customer.

“I am not sure about that,” smiles Stephen Alden, surveying a plateful of elegant snacks in front of us. “We just needed someone who would partner with us on the various aspects of the hotel, and who would fit in with the team. There was no falling-out.”

Really? Alden’s hand doesn’t even hesitate as it hovers over a deep-fried, truffle-stuffed, risotto ball.

“Really. We have a strong relationship that works very well at Claridge’s and we got a second Michelin star for Marcus Wareing at Petrus [another Ramsay operation in The Berkeley]. We just take an individual approach to each hotel.”

He nods and then gobbles down the risotto ball in one, not a crumb descending onto his spotless suit, shirt and tie.

Alden, 48, is a very smooth act. The Maltese-born boss of Maybourne Hotels, owner of The Berkeley, Claridge’s and the Connaught — three of London’s classiest hotels — is a Swiss-trained high-flyer hired to deal with the unexpected.

Next month he opens a new destination restaurant, Hélène Darroze at the Connaught, which has already got media noses twitching. Darroze replaces the restaurant run by Ramsay’s protégé Angela Hartnett (one Michelin star). Her lease was not renewed, reportedly, because she wouldn’t cook for room service — though Alden says this is not true.

Darroze is a French cooking queen (with two Michelin stars) whose restaurant in Paris was recently dubbed a “seriously sexy food experience” by one British newspaper. Ooh la la. There’s even a French television crew over, filming her grand arrival in London.

Alden settled on Darroze after researching super-chefs in France. Tough job?

“I ate 17 Michelin stars in three days. But you have to see what’s out there. I was in New York last week, hosting events . . .”

You can see how Darroze was won over. Alden speaks fast Maltese-inflected English, his Mediterranean good looks offset by a hotelier’s sleekness. Showing me round the Connaught’s elegantly refurbished rooms before lunch, he seems to glide rather than walk, with the pin-neat appearance of a Jermyn Street mannequin.

Eventually we sit to eat in the revamped Coburg Bar, all polished wood and tasselled, burgundy fittings. The banging next door signifies work still in progress chez Darroze. Or it could be the new wing with spa facilities being built behind the hotel, part of a £70m refurbishment of the site.