STARTING EARLY

Q I’m actually a 15-year-old, I live in Europe. When I grow up I want to be rich, I want nice suits, beautiful women, a nice car and a good job. I want to start achieving these things now, I want to smoke cigars and be cultured. My question is, how do I achieve this? And is it silly for a 15-year-old to get a suit and/or start smoking cigars?

A I’m 51, and when I grow up I want the same things! Seriously, there is nothing wrong in wanting a cultured, gentlemanly life. I think that you would be a bit young to smoke cigars, and I recommend against it for health reasons. As for wearing a suit and acting like a “gentleman”, you might risk exclusion of your peer group. However, find another group who would accept you. Don’t be afraid to be a leader.

A2 Striving to be cultured has nothing to do with age (luckily) but when you are 15 your body is far from mature and will change rapidly over the coming years. Unless you have loads of it to spend I would put my money in items that are not size dependent, such as a good watch and/or shoes (at least I remember my feet stopped growing around that age). Also, be aware that your taste might change over the next few years. I would recommend against smoking for health reasons. Since you are almost 16 I would rather indulge in fine wines. To each his own, I guess. Best of luck!

SPATS

Q What was the original use for them? Are they still made today? Can they be used, with a suit today? Like David Suchet does playing Hercule Poirot?

A Spats seem to be reserved for formal day dress nowadays, eg, HRH Prince Charles. Some lady fashions seem to have adopted the use of spats too. I believe they are used for parade wear by some Indian and Pakistani military units and, unless button boots or equivalent are worn, do smarten up the look of brass

PINSTRIPE EVENING WEAR

Q Are dark blue and dark grey pinstripe suits appropriate for evening wear, eg, theatre, dinner, cocktails, receptions, etc?

A They’re not egregiously wrong, and are more likely to be appropriate when some of the guests are expected to have come from work. Given an ample wardrobe and time to plan, however, I’d try for something else. Or at least go for a fabric that one wouldn’t normally see in the office.

A2 If you can have a suit made in dark grey or navy grain de poudre, you’ll have a stunning evening look. Black, as well.

BUTTONHOLES

Q Being young and American, most of my peers do not wear carnations with suits. I think it’s a nice touch, though. Is a carnation the flower of choice? Is there a proper way to wear it?

A I like to wear them, but got exceedingly tired of being asked, “Were you in a wedding today?” etc, and so tend to wear ’em sparingly. People will notice a boutonniere.

TIE LENGTH

Q The proper length for a tie is for the tip of the wide end to touch the top of your belt. True or false?

A Correct . . . and shorter is OK, but no longer than past the bottom of the belt.

A2 True. But I don’t like a few cms of shirt showing below the tip of the tie, either. Moreover, ideally both tips should hang at the same level (the narrow one maybe 1 cm higher) with the tie knotted.

BLACK SUITS

Q Is a black suit acceptable for everyday business?

A It may be acceptable, but is it desirable? Fashion, media, advertising and the like love black. None of it is bespoke, though. Other than as a stroller or for funerals, I would always choose some alternative, such as charcoal sharkskin or midnight blue herringbone. I did have a couple of black suits in my misguided youth (the ghastly coloured cheap stuff undergraduate gowns at university were made from clashed with anything other than black when subjected to artificial lighting), but they have been purposely worn out in the office and retired long since.