David Robertson in Dubai
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Some cities in the world are well known for being unloved. People like to say that the best place to be in Brussels is on the train to Paris. But such is the oppressive heat, not to mention the oppressive political culture of Doha, that foreign residents cannot even find a witticism to disparage the Qatari capital.
As one expatriate put it: “It’s ugly and boring. My God, is it boring.” Despite all the money and free time enjoyed by locals, Doha is a destination that businessmen dread.
Unfortunately for a city which has ambitions to become an international financial centre, its reputation for the very opposite of cosmopolitan living is damaging its chances.
Vast natural gas and oil reserves have given Qatar, a small peninsula in the Gulf, a per capita GDP of $36,632, making its population of 900,000 richer than the British, French or Germans. The Qataris are so wealthy that many families never have to work, while others benefit from restrictive laws that require most businesses to be majority-owned by a citizen of the country. This has created an elite group of silent shareholders who cream profits from the toil of foreign workers.
Doha is a world away from Dubai, the emirate just 300km across the Gulf where sun, sand and (whisper it) sex have created a thriving city.
However, the two cities are finding that they are increasingly competing for the same prizes as both try to flex their economic power on the world stage. Doha announced its plan to bid for the 2016 Olympics last week, pipping Dubai, which is also rumoured to be interested.
This may be simply jostling among competitive neighbours, but a serious game of one-upmanship is being played by these two cities in their attempt to develop financial markets of global significance.
The secretive Qatar Investment Authority (QIA) has used its $50 billion wealth fund to buy a 14 per cent stake in the London Stock Exchange (LSE) as part of a broader strategy to develop the immature Doha exchange.
However, Dubai has gatecrashed this arrangement by taking a 20 per cent stake in the LSE. Qatar responded by buying 10 per cent of OMX, the Baltic stock exchange, which is seeking closer ties with Dubai.
Europe’s stock markets are embroiled in a tug-of-war between two emirates, both trying to diversify their economies before their natural resources run out. Both Dubai and Qatar have identified the money markets as a business to get into and they aspire to becoming the dominant financial centre in the Middle East.Doha wants to create a financial hub by enticing the world’s financial institutions to set up there. Two years ago, only three foreign firms were registered with the Qatar Financial Centre, a regulator-come-promoter of Doha’s money market. There are now 64 and Stuart Pearce, chief executive of the QFC, believes that this number could double by the end of next year.
“The Qataris know that to build this market they have got to allow firms in to compete, as this will bring in new ideas and new products,” Mr Pearce said. However, Doha is such an unappealing place to live that most foreign firms have had to offer staff big perks to go there. As a result, the Doha offices of most large banks, insurance companies and law firms are little more than fronts for operations in Dubai, London and New York.
These firms, which are the essential foundation of any attempt to build a sustainable financial community, want a slice of the estimated $130 billion that Qatar will spend on infra-structure in the coming years. They want a slice of the $200 billion that the QIA is expected to invest in the future – but they would rather do the work anywhere than in Qatar.
The Government is attempting to change Doha’s image by investing heavily in the city through both the Olympic Games and a building programme that could soon rival that of Dubai. It certainly has the potential to be one of the great cities of the world.
Unfortunately, the restrictions of dictatorship and religion are tighter in Qatar than in Dubai – local newspapers do not refer to a coup 12 years ago that saw the current emir remove his father, and Qatari men will not mention the names of unmarried female family members to other men.
This repressive environment is unlikely to foster an open financial market and the Qataris may be forced to project their wealth into other countries instead. The QIA has already caught London’s attention by backing a £10.6 billion bid for J Sainsbury, the supermarket chain, but governments are becoming nervous about this sort of investment and the Qataris could find even this outlet regulated.
In the competition to rule the Middle Eastern financial markets, Dubai is way ahead of Doha. Now all it has to worry about are the ambitions of an even richer neighbour, Abu Dhabi.
Doha by numbers
1 Doha is constructing the world’s first underground stadium. The $20 million (£9.7 million) project will be used during the 2011 Asian Cup football tournament and is a key part of the city’s 2016 Olympic bid
2 It is home to Education City, a sprawling 14 million sq m campus that is considered the Ivy League of the Gulf
3 With no income tax, Qatar and Bahrain rank as the two least-taxed states in the world
4 Doha became a focus of the invasion of Iraq in 2003 as the location of the US central command
5 Qatar’s wealth is built on oil and natural gas. The country has oil reserves estimated at 15 billion barrels. It also produces 23 million tonnes of liquid natural gas a year, destined mostly for Japan
6 Building is booming in Doha, with more than 50 towers under construction, including the Dubai Towers, a 400m skyscraper
7 Qatar lifted censorship on the media in 1995. Al-Jazeera TV was launched from Doha two years later
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Doha / Dubai, yes Doha is a little boring, but as with any city it is what you make of it. The people of Qatar are quite nice, never had a problem with them in the 4 years I have lived here. I agree that the attitudes towards the way they treat European Expats could be better, rents could be more realistic, and the sponsorship needs to be looked at. But in general, as an Islamic country goes, this one is pretty good. Yes they want to make themselves look good (Do not report all crime, keep the press under control), put European countries do the same, just in different ways.
The biggest threat to this countries success, is itâs minority of people in the upper echelon being to greedy. They take to much in rents, ask for to high a percentage of profits for none or little input. But who wouldnât if you can get away with it. This undoubtedly will be there downfall.
Expat Citizen
Expat Citizen, Doha, Qatar
I am an american convert to islam, and Doha has been my home for the past 17 + years. Doha might not be as 'exciting' as Dubai, and that is one of the things I love about it. It is a safe place to raise my children. Expats from all over the world reside in Qatar, and many enjoy the 'boredom'. Those who are seeking an exciting life should consider other places. Doha is no hotter than Dubai, nor is it ugly. Doha isn't lush and green, however, the sea and the desert/dunes are beautiful, and many of the homes/villas are gorgeous! The people are generous and hospitable and the Emir has made Qatar heaven on earth for his people.
Um Ali , Doha, Qatar
I have lived in Qatar for nine years and I would totally agree with the report. The sponsorship system is nothing more than slavery, how in todayâs world it can still operate amazes me. Crime is hardly ever reported and just recently, the courts banned all reporting. Despite there being no media censorship, the newspapers self censor themselves! There are so many unwritten laws here in Qatar; locals are not supposed to consume alcohol, but you can go to the twelfth floor of the Mercure Grand hotel and it will be full of drunken Qataris!
Miss So Va, Doha, Qatar
"David Robertson in Dubai " has expressed his personal views about a country, which has been considered second home by peoples from around the world. Lest it is so misrepresented by the article, being a person who live here since 21 years, this writer would like the readers to now that this is a country fast progressing and most importantly on the fast track of changes, but not at the expense of their unique culture and heritage, for which they should be complemented, rather not derided.
Thomas , Doha, Qatar
I think the article does not do justice to Doha. I moved here with my family from Canada two years ago and like the place very much. Although the society and culture here is not as "open" as in Dubai, this is a relatively quite and peaceful place for young families. The Qataris are conservative by nature, but let the Western expats to live as they chose as long as they respect the culture of their hosts. Doha is fairly scenic, and it offers the same shopping and eating fare as Dubai albeit at a smaller scale. In fact there are a number of people who moved from Dubai to Doha and prefer it here. If you are a single expat looking for a Vegas type atmosphere or a young couple into partying and western entertainment 24/7, then Dubai is the right place for you. If you want a small and peaceful place to raise your family, then Doha may be a better choice than Dubai. The media restrictions and or trreatment of labour here is no better or worse than in Dubai.
T Riaz, Doha, Qatar
Hi,
As a times fidel reader, I took the pain to read and re-read this rather point of view than it is to be called an article or analysis.I am really surprised by Mr Robertson's harsh attack on Doha by aggressively comparing it to "his waw non-dictatorship Dubai" if only non- dictatorship to him means" whispered sex behind sands across the Gulf", which is not the case in "Ugly, Unloved Doha" which should take off its black abaya and unveil it's sexy body to be attractive despite the hot weather ( which our friend robertson didn't mention while talking about his Dubai, which is even hotter than doha) " by the way Doha is considered year along the less hotter city in the Gulf area".
Robertson talked about dictatorship and censership in Doha when it comes to criticizing the governing family and he didn't tackle the same point while talking about Dubai! and I don't know if he can tell me when did he last read an article about the ruling family in dubai that cricizes them? and aljazeera?
Hassan Mubarak, Doha, Qatar
what about this:" Qatar lifted censorship on the media in 1995. Al-Jazeera TV was launched from Doha two years later"? while talking about censorship.
I don't think Qataris are deadly in need to give up their conservatism and strongly founded religion to think about billions of money to be gained by "Dubai, the emirate just 300km across the Gulf where sun, sand and (whisper it) sex have created a thriving city".
I don't know of any qatari who is ready to turn Doha to brothel for whores to make money and called free- open -minded place and beautiful to live in.I guess any one who is not satisfied with the current situation in Doha, is not obliged or forced to stay in it.Anyway he is not welcome at all.
Hassan Mubarak, Doha, Qatar