Ian King
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Have you tried a Ranch Snack Wrap or a Little Italian yet? Or a Little Chorizo Melt? Or an Oriental Snack Wrap? If you have, you are not alone. These exotic-sounding delights are all part of the “Little Tasters” menu, introduced by McDonald’s in Britain at the beginning of last year, in a carefully planned move.
The strategy addressed two key objectives — first, to tackle the impact of the recession on consumers by offering them a good-value item, between £1.49 and £1.59, which sat between the cheapest dishes on the McDonald’s menu and more expensive lines such as the Big Mac. The second part of the exercise was all about continuing to attract new and different customers to McDonald’s, particularly young mothers taking their kids to the restaurant, who might traditionally only have bought a tea or coffee because they were deterred by the idea of a larger portion.
In doing so McDonald’s was continuing a process, on which it embarked five years ago, to listen more to local consumers in Britain and act on what it heard. It is something McDonald’s has sought increasingly to do around the world. This month, the fast-food giant launched a “McItaly” burger, enthusiastically supported by Silvio Berlusconi’s government. Luca Zaia, the country’s Minister of Agriculture, Food and Forestry, wrote to The Times last week after reports that the product had received a mixed reception there. Zaia pointed out that, on Wednesday alone, 100,000 of the burgers were sold. He added: “In Italy, we consider this a great success.”
All the McItaly’s ingredients are locally sourced and produced and will be worth €3.5 million a month to Italian farmers in extra income. Other local favourites around the world include the Maharaja Mac in India, which is made of lamb or chicken; the McLobster in Canada and, in Japan, the Ebi Filit-O, a kind of shrimp burger.
There are now signs that other multinationals are trying to boost their fortunes globally by emulating McDonald’s in stressing and accentuating their localism. For example, Starbucks, whose fortunes have been on the wane for some time, has been experimenting with locally designed franchises in stores that are non-Starbucks branded. The aim is to try to recapture the feel of a local coffee shop of the kind whose existence was threatened by the arrival, in its neighbourhood, of a global behemoth such as Starbucks.
Others adopting a similar approach include KFC, which has just announced a five-year plan to upgrade its UK restaurants with new contemporary designs, a key aspect of which will be a partnership with local property developers to ensure that the sites are in keeping with the “look and feel” of the area. The specific aim, it has stated, is to increase the frequency of visits from local residents.
Tesco, too, is adopting a careful local approach towards its expansion overseas. Although it has been happy to trade under its usual name and branding in countries such as Thailand, Hungary and the Czech Republic, when it entered the United States, Tesco did so under the name “Fresh & Easy Neighborhood Market”, stressing its local credentials at every opportunity.
We will hear a lot about globalism versus localism during the next few years (see box, below). For many, it is an environmental issue, with consumers looking to buy locally sourced and produced goods. That debate is still getting going — but the experience of McDonald’s in the UK has demonstrated how, even with the most global of companies, localism can be both genuine and a success.
The company is booming here. It recently reported, for the second consecutive year, an increase in like-for-like sales — in other words, in those restaurants that have traded under the same format for more than 12 months — of more than 10 per cent.For the whole of 2008 and 2009, there were an estimated 130 million more customer store visits while, going all the way back to 2005, the restaurant giant has added around £465 million to its sales.
Right now, the European arm of McDonald’s is the fastest-growing part of the fast-food empire, accounting for two fifths of global operating profits while being home to just a fifth of all its restaurants. Within Europe, the British business is currently the poster-child, putting in the shade France, long-regarded as one of the best markets for McDonald’s in the world.
What makes this story all the more remarkable is that, five years ago, the McDonald’s business in Britain was melting more rapidly than the cheese in one of its burgers. In this regard, it was lagging the company globally. The nadir for McDonald’s worldwide was 2002 when, battered by aggressive discounts from rivals such as Burger King and a growing taste — particularly among Americans — for non-burger fare such as Taco Bell and Pizza Hut, profits fell off a cliff. The company, also savaged in Eric Schlosser’s 2001 book Fast Food Nation, made the first loss in its history during October, November and December 2002.
At this point, a global turnaround strategy was launched by the chief executive, Jim Cantalupo, involving the introduction of more salads and fruit to menus and the “I’m Lovin’ It” slogan, promoted initially by Justin Timberlake. Things hit a wobble in April 2004 when Cantalupo unexpectedly died and then, seven months later, when his Australian successor, Charlie Bell, was forced to quit after the diagnosis of a cancer that would later kill him.
By then, though, the global turnaround was well established — but not in Britain, where sales had never really recovered after the outbreaks of mad cow disease in the 1990s. Consumer sentiment in Britain had also been turned against McDonald’s by the long-running “McLibel” trial, the longest libel trial in English legal history, in which the company spent £10 million suing the activists Dave Morris and Helen Steel for what it said were defamatory claims made in leaflets they had distributed about the company.
British consumers had also appeared unusually receptive to Super Size Me, Morgan Spurlock’s film on McDonald’s, which the company attempted to counter by placing ads in the trailers before UK screenings.
Something had to change — and it did. McDonald’s global bosses in Illinois realised that imposing uniform standards from the US was hitting European sales and responded by making its French managing director, Denis Hennequin, the first president of McDonald’s Europe. And, noting how successful putting a Frenchman in charge of its French operations had been, McDonald’s replaced its American chief executive in Britain with the Watford-born Steve Easterbrook in April 2006.
It was the first step in recognising that, in order to succeed globally, even the biggest multinationals must think locally. The concept of localism as we know it today first properly emerged two decades ago in the United States, initially as a drive among a certain kind of consumer to buy local produce and to support organic farming methods. Some of the ideas, though, were older. Many of the themes espoused by those pursuing what might be called a “localist” agenda — local provenance, craft production and a dislike of homogenised food and drink — were, for example, those underpinning the Campaign for Real Ale, Britain’s biggest single-issue consumer group, which next year celebrates its 40th anniversary.
During the past decade, however, the concept of localism has evolved and is now seen by many, particularly those on the left, as a possible counter-balance to globalisation. Businesses, particularly multinationals, are having to adapt accordingly — and few have done it as successfully as McDonald’s has in the UK.
By thinking as a local, Easterbrook understood British consumers better than his American predecessors, realising that genuine and not simply cosmetic changes were required to the way in which the company did business. He insisted, for example, that photographs of the British farmers who supply McDonald’s appeared on the sheets of paper put on customers’ trays. He also launched an initiative in which used cooking oil was converted into biodiesel fuel to power the company’s vans in Britain. Then there were the changes to the menus and the introduction of new items, such as the Little Tasters, as well as the introduction of more chicken-based dishes in response to customer demand for a greater selection of supposedly healthier white meat options.
This is thought internally to be a major reason McDonald’s has been able to increase its sales during the recession while the UK fast-food market has plateaued — because it has been taking market share from restaurants specialising in chicken.
Making breakfast a more important mealtime “event” for McDonald’s was another of Easterbrook’s initiatives. He explains: “We are still seeing significant growth from breakfast and coffee. It is still driving sales. We are open for longer hours than we used to be and on more days of the week. That’s why our customer visits were up during 2009.”
The company has also raised its game in how it reacts to the media. The expression McJob, first coined in Douglas Coupland’s 1991 novel Generation X, made it into the Oxford English Dictionary a decade later with a definition of “dead-end, low-paid employment” and has been used globally — but it was Easterbrook who launched a campaign to have the dictionary definition changed. He also enthusiastically embraced the Government’s initiative to allow big businesses — others include Network Rail and Flybe — to award their own qualifications equivalent to GCSEs, A levels and degrees.
Easterbrook cannot claim credit for all the improvements made. The company’s much-admired revamp of its restaurants, in terracotta, olive and sage green, with softer lighting from trendy low-hung lights, plastic being replaced by brick and wood, armchairs and wi-fi, has been a global initiative.
There is no doubt, though, that it is contributing to UK sales growth. Easterbrook cites a “sales kick” of around 6 per cent when a site is refurbished — amid evidence that, along with the extended opening hours and revamped menus, the new look to the restaurants is encouraging consumers to pay visits at different times of the day than they traditionally would have done.
It all means that sales in Britain nudged higher during 2006, grew more rapidly in 2007 and faster still in both 2008 and 2009. McDonald’s has not got its localism right everywhere, but for now at least Ronald has something to smile about.
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