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Sir Philip Green is hoping to mitigate the risk of an American launch of Topshop through a tie-up with Barneys, the leading US department store. The retail tycoon has negotiated a deal to sell Topshop’s new Kate Moss clothing range within Barneys outlets in the United States.
The alliance, in a market that has proved beyond the reach of many British high street brands, forms part of wider international expansion plans that have been drawn up for the Topshop chain.
A similar deal has also been negotiated in France with Colette, the lifestyle boutique.
The Barney’s deal also marks the latest effort by the group to exploit its alliance with Ms Moss.
Since clinching the £3 million deal with the supermodel, the group’s marketeers have been working hard to ensure a return on its investment.
Sir Philip, who revealed his ambitions in the United States last year, had planned to open a flagship store, but although that plan is still under consideration, he is now wary of moving too fast.
“The damage to the brand would be unquantifiable if we spent $50 million straightaway on a new flagship and it failed,” he said.
The Barneys tie-up, he said, would “give us a toe in the water. In terms of positioning it is iconic.” Asked about the difficulties of cracking the American market he replied: “Where is easy?”
Marks & Spencer, Habitat and Next are among the British high street names that were defeated after trying to create a presence in America.
Sock Shop, the 1980s chain, famously fell into administration after attempting to crack the country.
Carphone Warehouse, another high street name that has just entered the American market, has also linked up with a local partner. It has also sought to allay City concerns by emphasising its cautious approach.
Under the Barneys deal, the Kate Moss collection — which takes in everything from T-shirts to floaty dresses — will be sold in Topshop boutiques in 19 Barneys stores across the country and on the company’s website. The boutiques will open next month with a launch at Barney’s flagship Madison Avenue store, attended by Sir Philip and the supermodel.
The move comes as Topshop, which recently lost Jane Shepherdson, the director who transformed the fortunes of the fashion chain, is at the height of its popularity.
It has leapt from a cheap high street store to become one of the world’s most fashionable retailers. It has more than 300 UK stores and 97 overseas.
The brand is the crown jewel in Sir Philip’s Arcadia group, which he bought for £850 million in 2002.
Last October, Arcadia’s results showed that rising interest payments on a loan to fund his family’s £1.2 billion dividend contributed to a 20 per cent cent decline in profits at the retail group.
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