Graham Keeley in Barcelona
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Ferrán Adrià is many things — visionary, chemist, artist, magician — but the man widely regarded as the world’s best chef may be about to add another adjective to his astonishing CV, that of saviour.
The culinary genius behind El Bulli, the tiny restaurant that draws gastronomes from around the world to an otherwise unassuming corner of the Costa Brava, is to apply his skills to the task of luring tourists back to Spain.
It is a huge challenge. Tourism accounts for about 11 per cent of Spain’s GDP, but it took a battering this year as the global economic downturn led foreigners to seek cheaper beach destinations elsewhere.
Overnight stays fell by 5 per cent in August year-on-year, after a 5.5 per cent decrease in July, according to the National Statistics Institute. As the value of sterling fell against the euro, the number of Britons hitting Spanish beaches fell by 10.4 per cent.
Mr Adrià, best-known for dishes such as soft-boiled quail’s egg with caramel crust, or polenta of powdered Parmesan cheese, is to team up with the Esade Business School in Barcelona and La Caixa, the savings bank, to head the Tourism Management and Gastronomy School. He will teach tourism bosses to vary their business models and to find innovative ways with which to whet tourists’ palates.
Mr Adrià has met José Luis Rodríguez, the Spanish Prime Minister, to ask for €14 million (£12.8 million) to back the project, which is due to be launched next year.
“We need to take advantage of the importance of strategic sectors like gastronomy and tourism. We need to make money from creativity,” the chef said. The school, where Mr Adrià will give classes one week each year, aims to “apply creativity and innovation”.
Joaquín Romanillos, a BPI analyst, said: “The problem is that the beach, sun and party package is no longer enough to attract tourists to Spain. There are other destinations that have the same on offer, and are cheaper.”
The severity of the economic problems facing Spain’s Socialist Government were illustrated by the news that it is to raise VAT and capital gains tax and cut spending in a move designed to reduce its soaring deficit.
Elena Salgado, the Spanish Economy Minister, has announced that the 2010 Budget will raise VAT from 16 to 18 per cent and increase capital gains tax on profits of more than €6,000 (£5,500) to 21 per cent from 18 per cent. Spending will be cut by 3.9 per cent.
Ms Salgado said that the Government aimed to cut the deficit to 5.4 per cent of GDP in 2010. Analysts predict that the deficit for 2009 will reach 10 per cent of GDP.
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