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While every businessman should own a sharp, navy-blue suit, there should always be a more approachable grey one in the wardrobe too. Navy will project authority, whereas grey will render you more approachable on days when it is needed, perhaps for a discussion meeting with clients or a sensitive meeting with an employee. Keep the grey tones medium to charcoal in depth, because light grey suits never look expensive in a formal business setting. And while I recommend that you have a classic blazer in your wardrobe, it can look dated and conservative in business environments, so apply caution.
Bear in mind that trousers with a pleated front will add bulk, so if this is not the intention, go for minimal pleating. Always wear a belt in trousers with loops – you would be surprised at how many men I come across who don’t and who look incredibly sloppy.
When you buy a new suit it is always a good idea to choose some refreshing new shirts to go with it. Investing in good-quality cotton shirts will make all the difference to a sharp business look. The best-quality shirts have a seam at the centre of the yoke to allow more ease of movement.
Even if you are wearing your shirt without a tie, the look of quality is essential. Collars can soon lose their shape and bend at the corners, so buying shirts with removable collar stiffeners will help to retain the shape. When your shirt collars start to fray or generally get beyond help, ditch them. You cannot afford to jeopardise your image with a distraction like this so close to the face. A double cuff and cufflinks are still considered the ultimate in business style, and the cuff should extend from a half-inch to one inch beyond the jacket sleeve, depending on personal preference. Cufflinks worn with single cuffs look second best.
White shirts are not essential for the sharp, sartorial style – a dash of colour and pattern portrays creativity and flair. Beware: short-sleeved shirts are never as professional as long-sleeved shirts. You can fold up the long sleeves to just below the elbow and still look professional. I remember one of my Italian delegates saying that in her country “only bus drivers wear white shirts with short sleeves.” And please, never wear short-sleeved shirts with a tie – you’ll look ineffectual and school boyish.
Next week: Accessories
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