Atmosphere: small but functional with a colourful décor and friendly staff. No sign of queues or canteen chaos – good news for those seeking a quiet lunchtime retreat.

Worth queuing for: civil servants were spotted tucking into barbecued chicken with creamy mash, £2.95. Lentil broth gave off an alluring waft, while the salad bar provides virtuous alternatives including tomatoes with pesto and potatoes with dill, £1-£1.50. Simplicity rules here, with the exception of some creative paninis: blue cheese chicken and spicy tuna are staff favourites at £2.60.

Overall, offerings are tasty although far from gourmet – but then it is a Government agency. As expected, the emphasis is on healthy fare. No deep-fried foods are permitted and chocolate is kept away from the tills to reduce last-minute temptation.

Puddings are traditional with a slight twist. For some hearty stodge, head for the rhubarb and ginger crumble with custard, 60p.

Straight in the bin: the ‘Margarita Melt’ (French bread with cheese and soggy-looking tomatoes) may not go down well with pizza aficionados.

What this place really needs is: more choice. With hot mains restricted to just one meat and one vegetarian option, if you don’t like either, you’re a bit stuck.

Tried and tested: chunky ratatouille with a jacket potato and green beans; fresh fruit salad and water – a yummy lunch for £4.00.

The Food Standards Agency (FSA) Aviation House, 125 Kingsway, London. www.food.gov.uk

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